It’s been a long time arriving, but English wine has finally come of age.

Wine-making has a long history in England, with the first wines produced back in Roman times.

During the Middle Ages, wine production stepped up considerably, with 46 vineyards recorded in the Domesday Survey. This figure reached 139 by the reign of Henry VIII.

However, the 16th century saw the start of a sharp decline, possibly as a result of the dissolution of the monasteries, where much of the wine was produced, or perhaps due to a change to cooler, wetter climate conditions unsuitable for the vines.

Wine-making continued to be sporadic throughout the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, until it just about disappeared between the two world wars.

But thanks to a couple of pioneering experimenters, namely Ray Barrington Brock and Edward Hymans, there was a resurgence of interest in English wines in the 1950s, before Maj Gen Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones, from his vineyard in Hambledon near Portsmouth, started producing the first commercial wine since the First World War.

During the 60s, 70s and 80s, viticulture continued to expand, although still mainly confined to small estates and having to battle against recession and the competition from cheap supermarket wines and ‘booze cruises’ to France.

It was an uphill struggle. In the early commercial days, quality was unpredictable and English wine was also threatened by the spectre of the infamous British wine — a very different product indeed.

Still available today, this is made from imported wine concentrate, unlike English wine which is made from grapes grown here.

As might be expected, the two methods produce very different results, but are not easily separated in the minds of the public.

Nevertheless, English wine survived the onslaught from all corners and it has gone from strength to strength.

Today, it is a very different business, as Chris White, general manager of Dorking-based Denbies, England’s largest vineyard, explained: “The state of English wine has never been better.

“In fact, we now have the problem of demand out-stripping supply, so we need to plant more vines to cope with the growth.

“A lot of investment has gone into the business and English wines are winning international awards, so we’re very much becoming a world player.”

How this has been achieved is by combining experience with scientific knowledge to make sure the right strains are grown on the right soil in the right location.

One of the problems always faced by English wine growers was the unpredictable climate.

While we still see annual fluctuations, the slight increase in temperatures over recent years has had a definite effect on the quality and quantity of grapes being grown.

Chris continued: “The subtle changes in the climate have definitely helped. We’re seeing average increases in volume, ripeness is more reliable and sugar levels are higher, while acidity is being reduced.

“Everyone around the world grows hybrid varieties to suit their conditions and soils, so once you can identify what you can successfully grow, you can go on to develop it.

“It takes five years for a vine to reach maturity, so anyone in this business is in it for the long haul. We specialise in sparkling wines, for example. Our soil is ideal for the relevant grape varieties and there is a good return per bottle.”

The aim of the industry is to produce a number of top quality, middle to high-priced wines rather than vast quantities of cheap and cheerful plonk.

“Producers must be willing to adapt blends and methods to suit their customers’ tastes,” explained Chris. “England has never been known for producing sweet wines, but what we do make is tasty, fruity and aromatic.

“We are able to make some red wines from certain grapes, such as pinot noir, and in a good year, we can produce a full-bodied red, but these wines are never as reliable as the whites.

“However, you can be certain that any red wine that is made is of the highest quality.”

Denbies wines can be found on sale in the Budgens supermarkets in Lightwater and Ash Vale.
For more details on Denbies' wines, visit www.denbiesvineyard.co.uk