If you’ll pardon the pun, the new Aviator Hotel in Farnborough is set to take off.

Interest is growing rapidly from the public as word gets out that this is not just an excellent place to stay, it is also a great venue to enjoy a delicious meal or a relaxing drink.

The hotel is impressive inside and out, which isn’t surprising considering a massive £40m has been spent on its development.

For anyone lucky enough to view it from the air, the building is shaped like a large propeller with a central ‘hub’. The design bears reference to the fact that the hotel is next door to the famous airfield and was built on land previously occupied by the RAF officers’ mess.

Although sleek and sophisticated on the exterior, it is when you walk through the doors that you really experience the full ‘wow’ factor.

The building itself is the work of Robin Partington of London architects Hamiltons, and the interior is complemented by the modern and understated style of designer Amanda Rosa.

Together, the two have created a hotel unlike any other in the area and, indeed, beyond.

Sticking to the idea of a central hub, the hotel is built around an atrium theme. Visitors can stand on the ground floor and look upwards to the roof several storeys above.

Unlike many atrium-style buildings, this one does not have a glass roof revealing the sky — it has a dramatically lit blue dome with curved, cream-edged balconies spiralling up towards it.

Throughout the hotel, the theme is one of flowing spaciousness, accentuated by panoramic views over the airfield on the one side, and over nearby houses, buildings and trees on the other.

To ensure that the noise of low-flying aircraft outside does not impinge on the quiet calm within, specialised sound-proofed glass has been installed — a feature that is particularly important for the conference and seminar rooms. 

Unlike most hotels, the Aviator has been cleverly split so that public parts of the building are on the ground floor and the private, hotel function is on the first floor upwards. This is where you will find the reception area.

The idea is that anyone visiting the hotel for a specific purpose, such as to eat or attend a meeting, will find everything easily as they walk in, while guests will have their own exclusive areas away from the general hustle and bustle.

But the hotel’s appeal is not solely aimed at the business guest or visitor looking to stay in the one of the 169 rooms.

The management, led by Michael Helling, is keen to attract local people, who can simply visit as and when they wish to sample the delights of eating and drinking in the hotel.

For drinks, the Skybar offers sophisticated and comfortable surroundings in which to enjoy a cocktail or two, while the rustic-themed Deli is open from 7am until 8pm for light, Mediterranean-style meals, continental pastries, salads, antipasti and soups.

But it is the hotel’s restaurant, the Brasserie, which, under the direction of head chef Allan Pickett, aims to provide London-quality dining but without the London price tag.

Like the rest of the hotel, the decor in the Brasserie is chic, modern and comfortable, and there are nice little touches, such as the private dining rooms and the wine tasting room, where customers will be able to take part in a variety of tasting experiences.

Allan’s CV is impressive. He has worked at some of the capital’s finest restaurants, including Le Gavroche, Chez Nico and L’Escargot, and he comes to the Brasserie straight from Galvin Bistrot de Luxe in Baker Street, where he was head chef.

“It’s all very exciting,” he said. “And it’s great to be working here after so many years in London.”

Like many other chefs today, Allan is keen to use local suppliers and seasonal produce as much as possible, and he is actively looking to source from within the area.

“We get salad and vegetables from Secretts in Milford near Godalming, we offer a wide selection of Hampshire cheeses and we also use The Real Jam Company, but we are always on the lookout for local, good quality suppliers,” he continued.

“It will be interesting to see how things develop and evolve over time.”

The menu, which changes daily, is interesting and imaginative but thankfully devoid of the ostentatious superlatives and descriptions which still adorn those of some up-market venues.

As a result, you more or less know what you are going to get when you order. Portions are similarly unpretentious.

Although beautifully presented, nouvelle cuisine this ain’t. You won’t leave this restaurant thinking you now need to go and eat a square meal.

What’s more, the prices are much what you would expect to pay at a decent pub, with prices for a main course starting at £10.50, so it isn’t necessary to break the bank to enjoy a meal here.

I went along to find out whether the food was as good as it sounded, considering the hotel’s claim of affordability.

Allan has a passion for fish and seafood and these feature prominently on the menu in a number of different guises, from fish soup to roast cod with cockles and white beans.

With this in mind, I tried a starter of salade Nicoise, one of my all-time favourites — a simple dish, but something that can be difficult to get right.

It was perfect, as was my companion’s Loch Fyne smoked salmon, which was accompanied by soured cream and wafer-thin brown bread.

Other starters include enticing items like chilled vine tomato and basil soup with black olive puree and vegetable salad with truffle dressing, so making a choice can take time.

Similarly, the main courses are interesting yet uncomplicated, featuring dishes such as slow roast Old Spot pork belly with cider and roast chicken with panzanella salad.

I went for grilled calf's liver with braised baby gem lettuce in a sherry vinegar sauce.

Calf's liver is a delicate meat so I was keen to see how it would turn out. Cook it a moment too long and it turns from a soft, delectable treat into a dry, rubbery piece of leather.

I’m pleased to say that Allan’s kitchen achieved the former. Not only that, the dish came with a creamed potato that was to die for — and who would have thought you could artistically arrange mash?

My companion decided on rib of steak (done rare) with handcut chips and tarragon mustard, and he declared that the steak was perfectly cooked and the chips exactly as they should be — crunchy on the outside and fluffy inside.

By this point we were pretty full, but we valiantly tackled a dessert each, again finding it difficult to make a selection.

The bitter chocolate tart with pistachio ice cream and Eton mess with Cornish clotted cream beckoned, but in the end we chose poached meringue in English custard (also known as isle flotant) and hot raspberry souflee with raspberry sorbet.

By poaching meringue instead of baking it, the end result is soft and chewy rather than hard and crispy. This one was just that, complementing the custard, which contained exactly the right amounts of vanilla and sugar. Butterscotch crisps to decorate added a little crunch and texture.

The summery pudding of hot rasberry souflee was as light and airy as a souflee should be and with the contrast of the cold, slightly more tart sorbet, the two made a winning combination.

We finished the meal with a smooth cup of coffee and agreed that the Aviator Brasserie was definitely a restaurant we would be returning to in the future.

For details or to book a table, call 01252 555890.
 
Allan’s Heirloom tomato salad, goats cheese and Secretts Farm leaves

Ingredients

400g of Heirloom tomatoes.
200g mixed leaves or equivalent
180g goats cheese rolled into small balls or cut into equal pieces
Sea salt and milled black pepper.
12 semi-dried cherry tomato halves

For the dressing
60ml good quality olive oil
20ml of aged balsamic vinegar, or a good quality sherry vinegar
Pinch of sea salt and milled pepper.

Method

For the dressing, mix the olive oil, vinegar and the seasoning in a bowl.

Cut cherry tomatoes in half, place on a heat-proof tray and flash under a hot grill to start the drying process.

Place in an oven set at 50° C for around three hours, checking periodically. This can be done 24 hours in advance.

Slice the Heirloom tomatoes and arrange in the serving dish.

Add the semi-dried cherry tomatoes followed by the goats cheese slices or balls.

Finish the leaves with the balsamic dressing and gently place them on the tomatoes.
Once the leaves have been dressed serve immediately.