ALTHOUGH traditionally a summer treat, in recent years ice cream has become something of an all-year staple.

The growth in popularity, coupled with the public’s increased interest in locally produced, high quality food, has meant that for the Gosden family, of Goddard’s Farm, life has become rather hectic.

Trading under the brand name Farmer Gosden’s Dairy, the family produce luxury ice cream which tastes just as ice cream should from their Sherfield-on-Loddon base.

There are four members of the family working at the farm — Ivan and Wendy Gosden and their son Matthew, plus Ivan’s sister Sally Du Gay.

Together they make the ice cream and care for the farm’s 200-strong Jersey herd which produces the distinctive so-called Channel Island milk.

The ice cream side of the business came about almost by accident, but it has turned out to be a very happy one.

While at Sparsholt College of Agriculture in Winchester, Matthew wrote a dissertation on ice cream making and diversification, and when he started officially working on the farm in 2003, he set about putting his ideas into action.

The result was Farmer Gosden’s Luxury Jersey Ice Cream.

Sally explained: “Making ice cream was an excellent way to compensate for the poor milk prices at that time.

"Fortunately we already had a great raw material because Jersey milk is particularly good for this purpose. It has a lovely, rich colour and a sweeter flavour and it has a higher butterfat content than ordinary milk.”

The original ice cream the farm produced was Just Jersey, which has since become its signature flavour.

This is a traditional blend of cream and milk that can be eaten as it is or used as a base for other flavours.

It is loved by chefs in the various restaurants the farm supplies because it makes a rich, yet neutral accompaniment to any dessert.

“Just Jersey is wonderfully creamy,” said Sally. “And it’s particularly good at this time of year because the cows are out on good grass.”

All the ice cream is made on the farm in a dedicated laboratory and Sally says it is quite a simple process.

First the milk and cream from the herd is pasteurised and then aged.

A vat of pasteurised base mix is made up. Six-litre batches are then taken to be flavoured and frozen.

The farm produces between 220 and 350 gallons of ice cream a week. This is sold in sizes varying from individual pots up to catering packs.

“We are waiting to be awarded SALSA accreditation, which stands for Safe And Local Supplier Approval,” said Sally.

“This is a scheme supported by Defra and the Food Standards Agency.

It gives customers peace of mind that the food has been produced in the right way and in the right conditions.

“The nice thing about our milk is that it is all traceable. We know where it came from and when, and of course we know exactly how the cows are kept and cared for.”

From the humble beginnings of Just Jersey, the farm now produces a wide variety of flavoured ice creams.

In response to the requests of local chefs, it has also added sorbets to the range.

These and the flavoured ice creams are made as far as possible from locally grown, seasonal fruit, although as Sally pointed out, chefs have a tendency to ask for flavours like watermelon, something which is neither local nor seasonal.

The farm can also make bespoke flavours and sometimes the chefs come up with their own ideas.

The family was recently asked by celebrity chef Antony Worrall Thompson to make up a sorbet from a recipe he supplied containing lemon grass and chilli.

“It sounds odd, but actually it was quite subtle,” said Sally. “And once for a competition, we made an Alresford watercress ice cream, which was interesting, but definitely a one-off.”

She continued: “People expect to have lots of flavours and chefs like it too. And of course, it does look good on display at a show when you see all the lovely colours.

“Our ice creams are as natural as possible and have no artificial colourings or flavours.

“Vanilla sounds simple but it is a very difficult flavour to make because it is not easy getting it right and everyone has their own views on how it should taste.

“Our vanilla, for example, contains real vanilla and even has the seeds in it. We once had a batch sent back to us from a restaurant because they thought the seeds were some kind of contamination.”

Vanilla, though, seems to be universally popular and it is the most commonly requested flavour.

“People always apologise when they ask for vanilla because they think they’re being unadventurous,” said Sally. “But it’s interesting because you find the different ages and sexes have their own preferences.

"Little boys like mint chocolate chip, little girls want anything that’s pink, men go for vanilla, rum and raisin and coffee, and women ask for vanilla and pistachio.

“The chefs on the other hand like coconut, ginger and banana, and of course the Just Jersey.
"My own personal favourites are coconut and honeycomb. We also do some gorgeous luxury flavours, including trifle which contains real sherry.”

The Gosdens are already turning their thoughts towards Christmas, planning their special, limited edition flavours only available over the festive season.

These will include Christmas pudding, white chocolate with orange ripple and possibly whisky ice cream.

“We are looking ahead all the time,” said Sally. “Next year we’re aiming to get into a wider range of shops in the north-east Hampshire region. We’ve already had lots of support from Hampshire Fare and Hampshire Farmers’ Markets.

“We’re also planning on making yoghurts, creme fraiche and cottage cheese from the skimmed milk which is a by-product of the ice cream production, so really it’s very exciting.”

And it’s all thanks to Matthew and Sparsholt College.

Farmer Gosden’s Dairy ice cream is available at a number of restaurants in the area and can be bought from Newlyns Farm Shop in North Warnborough and Blue Pig Delicatessen in North Camp.